Hargeisa and all that

I have arrived in Somaliland! I actually arrived on Saturday 1st May, at Hargeisa airport, although its a little generous to call it an airport, more like a building on its own in what is really a desert.
Upon arrival at the airport I handed over the letter I got in Nairobi explaining that I'd come from Nairobi and would need them to issue me a Visa. The man stared at me for a second and then asked for my visa. I explained that I didn't have one and that I needed him to issue me one, he asked again. Eventually, after repeating this several times another man explained the situation in Somali and I got my visa and was on my way.

I was given a ride to my hotel (Maansoor hotel) by a taxi driver that a soldier had found for me called Yusuf, the soldier joined me on the journey and both of them chewed qaat (a mild narcotic) all the way.

Once I got to the hotel I explored outside. Unfortunately the hotel is really far out of town, so I couldn't make it into town without a car, and a taxi cost $15, so instead I explored the 'hood.

Lots of people were living in these tents that were just outside the hotel. I'm not sure how they manage it, but the tents are surrounded by sticks that look like they've grown out of the ground especially to surround them.

Evidence of Somaliland interest in football and graffiti. Not sure what the numbers mean!

Local transport isn't just cars it seems!

After exploring outside for five minutes and deciding that I definitely needed to find somewhere closer to town to stay tomorrow I went back to the hotel and discovered I could go onto the roof and take pictures... So... I did.

This is just to give an idea of the way everything is arranged, the houses just go on and on to the horizon, and its all really sandy!

This is the same... but its prettier because of the sunset.

This is at the back of the hotel where there's a little "Garden"

I got a bit bored of taking pictures of the landscape and noticed that when I took a picture that camera made a shutter noise that made me feel a little bit like a spy... So I took lots of pictures of people oblivious to my super spy skills!

After taking hundreds of silly photos I met up with a woman I'd been put in contact with called Zamzam. She runs an NGO, one of the oldest in Somaliland, called CCS. They do work with HIV and AIDS patients as well as women's rights. She also introduced me to her friend Amran (I really haven't got a clue how to spell it) who put me in contact with a school that I might be able to see outside Hargaisa.

Later on, after a traditional Somaliland supper of beef burger I snuggled up in my double bed and fell asleep watching awful american action movies including Money Train and Scream 2.

Day two was spent getting to a different hotel, I'd been reccomended the Imperial Hotel and Oriental Hotel, for some reason I decided that since it was closer to town the Oriental would be better, I realised when I woke up the next morning at six o'clock that this was poorly thought through.

Once I got to the Hotel I had an explore of central Hargeisa had some interesting experiences including a man holding my arm next to his, pointing at each of them and saying "White... black" over and over while his friend chipped in "White is best". I was also offered a black dress with lovely red roses on, I politely declined. I spoke french to a man from Djibouti who said 'poo' instead of 'peut'. I also discovered that, unlike other East Africans, Somalis know where Bristol is!

Today, after being rudely awoken by a driver who decided to continually honk his horn outside my window I had my breakfast. I opted for French Toast, which they took more literally than I was expecting and made it with thick slices of baggette.

I then went out for a bit more exploration of Hargeisa, this time I met a man called Mohammad who gave me a basic tour of the place as well as teaching me some Somali (Most of which I've already forgotten).

This the the MiG jet which, as far as I can tell is the only tourist attraction Hargeisa has and its stood on a pedestal. Apparently it was captured during the war, and nw they've kept it as a reminder.

This is Mohammad who showed me round and sat me down for some Somali tea.

Mohammad very kindly helped me negotiate a price for two T-Shirts I found, a "Star Wash" and a bright orange Easyjet one I found at a stall nearby. After enjoying Somali tea which was more sugar than tea, I went back to the hotel to take some more pictures off the roof.

This is a street just outside the Hotel that was filled with market stalls.